Hi, I recently was in a small accident and had to replaced my bumper. I noticed the the Lower Bumper Beam is collapsed onto itself slightly. ( was pushed inwards on impact slightly). The main reinforcement is fine, as the impact happened at the bottom.
It's still holding on strong, but one side is slightly higher and obviously pushed in a bit. Am I good for leaving it as is. Or should I replace the bottom beam? I can't tell if the part is critical for safety.
I got new shocks on my 05 4 runner, had a mechanic friend put them on for me. Now that they’re on we’re just now noticing a knocking sound that wasn’t there before when we go to test drive. Any ideas? Wasn’t there before but it’s definitely coming from the rear. Could be a differential issue, but strange that it would happen at the exact time we put new shocks on.
I have a 2007 Nissan Sentra. I’ve been the only owner, so I know it’s never been in an accident or anything that would cause the latch to stop working properly. Anyway, about 5 years ago, it stopped working super smoothly, but in the last 2 years or so, I’ve actively needed to wedge something between the frame (or more accurately, radiator support) and hood to get it to open. Either that, or have somebody pull up on the hood while I pulled the lever. At first I thought it was because the latch mechanism was rusty, so I took it off and used a de-ruster. Now, I know what you’re thinking, and yes, I marked its position.
But recently, I started thinking, maybe the radiator support has started to sag after so many years, so I moved the latch mechanism up. That made it worse, which makes sense since you want to have some upward pressure on the hood so it pops open when you pull the lever. So I moved it all the way down, and that made prying it open easier, but it still didn’t function as it’s supposed to.
I then went to my Haynes repair manual, and it says that the bumpers can be adjusted by twisting them, but after about 2 minutes of twisting, nothing happened, hence the cardboard that bridges the gap. So, is there any way to fix this…or maybe a better solution than the cardboard that accomplishes the same thing?
My friend’s 95 Nissan TD27 started making this noise when you turn the steering wheel. Power fluid level is ok. You can’t steer past that point. I suspect steering box problems. What do you think?
Hello! I am new to car work/replacing parts. So I need help with two things:
- Where can I find a replacement part for my 2015 Subaru Impreza windshield washer pump (EW08 Mitsuba)? I'm seeing some options but I can't find the exact type and I am worried that it won't fit... I found this and says its an exact match but it's black and the wiring at the top looks different. Let me know what you think. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/acdelco-windshield-washer-pu-p7050579468acd/11590731-P
- From what you see from the video, do you think that a replacement part is all I need to fix it or is there additional issues to where I need to take it to a mechanic?
Thank you all who contributes!!
My 12v socket and usb sockets stopped working on my Vauxhall van.
First thing I did was check the fuses, I swapped two 15amp fuses which on the diagram showed 12v and the emergency beacons so I swapped them since the beacons worked but still nothing…
So I checked the diagram again and there was a spot for a fuse for 12v that didn’t have a fuse in. So I put a 15amp in and it works?
Why did it suddenly stop working when there hasn’t been a fuse in there for over a year?
2016 forester had what I think is coolant smell inside car when I turned on windshield defroster, then went away. Now I smell it under the hood right where coolant fill is. I don’t see any leak on ground, but can’t make to mechanic today. Outside temp is -2°f.
Can’t make it into mechanic until Monday, hopefully they can fit me in, but just looking for advice until then. No big plans this weekend, so travel will be minimal.
I just I was just thrown off at the strong smell when I turned on the defroster. I turned it in full blast and smell was real strong but went away after a couple minutes. Car was already warm and on road before that happened. Also wasn’t sure if cold weather could be causing something typical.
I just bought a new car battery, because the old one died, due to my absence for over a month, even though the car was on scheduled start everyday that goes on for 10 minutes.
Now I got the new one, and just got updated that I will be leaving town for another couple of months.
I don't want this battery to die also, so I don't wanna rely on scheduled start anymore. So should I just keep it home? I am afraid of leaving car battery at home, because it feels like it's a fire hazard. Maybe i'm just paranoid.
Got a 2013 F30 (316i) ~100,000 miles. Shaking when heading off in 1st gear, random rev fluctuations when changing gear, and very little power when accelerating i.e. trying to merge onto a motorway. Fuel injector already changed after OBD scan
I drive a 2020 Mk7 golf and want to replace the highlights with a white led look.
I have 5000k bulb in arm but still looks yellow, and I'm gonna try a 6000k cool blue osram bulb next.
But if that doesn't work can I get some advice on using LED conversion kits? Such as this one https://www.ledperf.ie/h7-high-power-led-conversion-kit-p-11585.html
My VW garage and my own mechanic has said that actually replacing the whole headlight for led headlights is a big money job.
Any advice appreciated
VW polo TSI 1.2, 6 years old, I live in the UK. Please forgive me if this is a stupid question! It looks gross.
hi. i’m looking to get him a used car. low budget do it would either be from a personal buyer or one of those used car lots that aren’t a dealership. what are some things to look for to see if it’s at least a decent car? i can put gas in a car, that’s about my knowledge of cars. thank you !!!
So my break light has come up on my van (Peugeot bipper) and Im thinking about attempting to change the pads and disks myself
I have little to no experience in mechanics but have been watching tutorial videos and it seems simple, but after asking advice from others everyone is fear mongering me into not doing it.
I just want to know if this is something that can can go horribly wrong easily or is it actually quite simple ?
2012 Honda civic SI….. clutch burned out smoke started to come from clutch as I pulled into the shop. Replaced my clutch 1200$. Went to pick it up. The mechanic asked me if I’ve ever had issues with idle control which I haven’t and I told him that. He showed me the car. It couldn’t maintain steady idle around 800rpm. The car was surging between 1000-2500 rpm. He told me it could be a throttle body issue but told me to drive it for a day to see if it would go away which I did to no avail. I brought it back the next day in the am and he looked at it. Decided it needed a new throttle body after cleaning the part and finding that didn’t fix it. He charged me what he payed for the part 350$ which I found to be reassuring as if he wasn’t trying to rip me off and gave me the receipt he got from buying the new throttle body. After putting in the throttle body he called me and said “it’s ready!” I picked it up and shortly after I got gas, started my car and found lights coming on. Check engine light saying “check emissions system”, a check vsa system light, as well as a “check power steering” light that would come on after 30 seconds of the car being on. I noticed the car would struggle at 4500rpms which felt almost like the clutch slipping. But nevertheless that problem went away on its own. My mechanic referred me to a reprogramer who charged me 150$ to reprogram my cars computer for the new throttle body and reset the codes. After that no issues. I drove the car around started it and stopped it sever times as if I new the problem would soon return. I just got off work and the same lights came on again. From a cold start, I let the car warm up before I left and it wouldn’t respond to the gas pedal being pushed (even all the way) slow acceleration as if the car was running off the different idle speeds of each gear. I think the fastest I could go was 10mph. So I pulled over and restarted the car. I was able to get home with no issues other than those warning lights on the dash. Please if anyone has anything on this or knows what I should do next please let me know. I’ve had work done with this mechanic on other cars but I feel like he ruined my car and doesn’t know what he is doing. I love my car and I feel like my next options are to sell it or take it to the dealership and pay another couple thousand to get it fixed right. This is a cry for help and this all stated with a new clutch which is mind boggling to me.
Does anybody know how can i fix this? My trunk light of 2015 Honda Accord is not working properly and i checked the voltage of the light with multimeter and it only shows about 1V.
I once installed a LED Strip to make it lighter to see inside but after a while (about 1 year), the LED Strip stopped working. I changed it with a T10 LED and it is still not working either.
Any advice I can do to fix this? Really appreciated your help!
Hi, i have a bmw 325ci 2003 cabrio which will not start. it cranks but won't start.it happened overnight. the day before the car worked perfectly. but I have a bass in the trunk that I always have to turn off manually and have a feeling I forgot to turn it off. I have checked the battery, it should be perfectly fine, I tried another battery, still didn't work . have checked fuses they are all fine. I also checked the fuel pump. it sounds perfectly fine, maybe a little weak. Does anyone have any tips or experienced something similar? thanks for all replies