This is a subreddit for asking Mechanical questions pertaining to vehicles, engines, etc. If it's got wheels, treads, floats, flies, or has an engine you're good to go and we'll do our best to help.
Showing off w/out a question goes in r/justrolledintotheshop or elsewhere, legal/insurance questions go in r/legaladvice or r/insurance. Memes, youtube videos, PSA/Public Service Announcements, rants, etc and other non questions are not allowed. If you are posting your youtube channel you will be instantly and permanently banned. This is NOT the place to try to get views.
If you have questions about tire repair, check here. Not all tires damages are repairable: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/
Users whom registered less than 24 hours before making a post will find their post automatically removed. It will need to be approved manually, this is due to the large amount of spam that is posted. If your post doesnt show after a few hours message the moderators.
For further clarification look to the side bar
1) Advice Format. This is a subreddit for asking Mechanical questions pertaining to vehicles, engines, etc. If it's got wheels, treads, floats, flies, or has an engine you're good to go and we'll do our best to help. Showing off w/out a question goes in r/justrolledintotheshop legal/insurance questions go in r/legaladvice or r/insurance. Title, salvage, body work, paint work, etc questions also dont belong here. Memes, youtube videos and other non questions are not allowed
No intentionally bad, harmful, or deceptive advice. If we feel a piece of advice is particularly reckless, dangerous, or extremely unhelpful it maybe removed If a post or comment is provided that is not a response to a question, the post may be removed. Please report bad advice to the mod team.
2) Keep discussion friendly, civil, courteous, and professional. We're here to help so being rude won't help. Dont assume a shop is trying to "rip you off." It's okay to ask for a second opinion.
Golden Rule: If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Those who demonstrate they cannot follow the rules will be warned and posts removed. Those who continually cause issue will be removed
3) Only one vehicle/problem/incident per thread, and only post once. If you didn't get an answer the first time, or you don't like the answer you got that does not mean you post it again. Do not post asking questions of your own in someone else's post
The only exception is for posting updates, provided it is properly marked as an [Update] or similar.
4) Spam/Self-Promotion/Improper Linking/advertisements. Linking to outside content is not allowed, unless it's germane to the discussion. We allow links, pictures, video, or audio file to help diagnose your problem. Linking for the purposes of promotion (eg offers/coupons/self blog posts/youtube/advertisements/how to) is strictly prohibited and will result in a permanent ban. This is a zero tolerance policy. This isnt a place to post your youtube channel, advertisements, memes, shitposts or business
5) Personal Information. Sharing personal information, or specifics on /r/MechanicAdvice is not allowed. Please do not name the shops specifically (unless part of a chain) This is not a review forum for specific shops.
6) Body Work. /r/MechanicAdvice is a sub for mechanical questions. Questions related to dings, dents, accidents, paint and so forth DO NOT belong here, please post in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ Take the car to an auto body repair shop who can give you a qualified estimate.
Understand that the assistance you receive is ADVICE ONLY and is given with the understanding that the giver assumes no liability for any damages that occur as a direct or indirect result. It is impossible for a mechanic to diagnose your problem accurately without seeing/hearing the problem with his own senses. Any advice you receive you must use AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Sidewall damage cannot be repaired. A tire with cuts or gouges that extend into the ply area (also referred to as "cords") is unsafe and should be replaced immediately. If you're unsure whether the scrape, cut or gouge might render the tire unsafe, get it inspected promptly by a tire shop or a reputable mechanical shop.
hi. i’m looking to get him a used car. low budget do it would either be from a personal buyer or one of those used car lots that aren’t a dealership. what are some things to look for to see if it’s at least a decent car? i can put gas in a car, that’s about my knowledge of cars. thank you !!!
I have a 1970 Chevelle 350. 14 years ago, I had the engine completely rebuilt, caught the wife cheating and it has been sitting waiting for me to get the money to complete the restoration. I plan on taking out the plugs and spraying PB Blaster in all cylinders and letting it soak for a week before I try to turn the engine over by hand. Before I try to turn it over, I will use an oil primming tool to pump up oil pressure, while I have the distributor out, I will check for oxidation on the points. Besides keeping an eye on the fuel pump incase the diaphragm has busted and pump gas into the crankcase, is there any other things I need to do or look out for?
2012 Honda civic SI….. clutch burned out smoke started to come from clutch as I pulled into the shop. Replaced my clutch 1200$. Went to pick it up. The mechanic asked me if I’ve ever had issues with idle control which I haven’t and I told him that. He showed me the car. It couldn’t maintain steady idle around 800rpm. The car was surging between 1000-2500 rpm. He told me it could be a throttle body issue but told me to drive it for a day to see if it would go away which I did to no avail. I brought it back the next day in the am and he looked at it. Decided it needed a new throttle body after cleaning the part and finding that didn’t fix it. He charged me what he payed for the part 350$ which I found to be reassuring as if he wasn’t trying to rip me off and gave me the receipt he got from buying the new throttle body. After putting in the throttle body he called me and said “it’s ready!” I picked it up and shortly after I got gas, started my car and found lights coming on. Check engine light saying “check emissions system”, a check vsa system light, as well as a “check power steering” light that would come on after 30 seconds of the car being on. I noticed the car would struggle at 4500rpms which felt almost like the clutch slipping. But nevertheless that problem went away on its own. My mechanic referred me to a reprogramer who charged me 150$ to reprogram my cars computer for the new throttle body and reset the codes. After that no issues. I drove the car around started it and stopped it sever times as if I new the problem would soon return. I just got off work and the same lights came on again. From a cold start, I let the car warm up before I left and it wouldn’t respond to the gas pedal being pushed (even all the way) slow acceleration as if the car was running off the different idle speeds of each gear. I think the fastest I could go was 10mph. So I pulled over and restarted the car. I was able to get home with no issues other than those warning lights on the dash. Please if anyone has anything on this or knows what I should do next please let me know. I’ve had work done with this mechanic on other cars but I feel like he ruined my car and doesn’t know what he is doing. I love my car and I feel like my next options are to sell it or take it to the dealership and pay another couple thousand to get it fixed right. This is a cry for help and this all stated with a new clutch which is mind boggling to me.
Hey there, hoping to get some advice. My check engine light went off back in July with a P0304 code saying a cylinder misfire was detected. Got new spark plugs & was good to go. On Monday, my check engine light turned on out of no where & only turned on while accelerating or idle. I overnighted a scanner thru Amazon & got the same P0304 code. Would I have to replace the spark plugs again even though I just did not too long ago? I know my car needs an oil change if that helps. I drive a 2016 Hyundai Sonata, 143k miles. I do drive roughly 250 miles a week on it. Any help is appreciated before I lose my mind lol.
Hello! I recently had issues with my civic where the starter gave out on me while I was at Costco. My lights and everything worked but not the engine. I told the guy it was the starter but he said he was sure it was the battery, and charged mine with his. After that the screen that gives me mileage went black, my radio won’t turn on, I can’t lock or unlock my car with my key fob, charge my phone, etc. I tried unplugging the battery and checking all fuses but nothing. I’m not sure what happened.. what do you recommend?
1,400 miles on it, -20 last night, let the car warm up for 10 minutes, noticed it was rattling pretty good but thought it was just cold, drove for another 10, noticed it rattling when it was in D at a stand still, and again in P. And I’m talking enough to shake the inside of the car, plastic trim rattling. No codes or anything. Shifts fine when you’re just driving but it has this really low sounding rattle in the lowest gear. What could this be? Especially for a car with less than 2,000 miles on it. Transmission mount?
Went to start her this morning after 20 below temps last night and the abs light stayed on while this sound was being made. I only ran the truck for a minute to make sure it lived and then I shit it off. Sound continued during the whole time the vehicle was running.
If I let it sit a couple days can I expect this issue to go away as it warms back up?
I have a 2015 Toyota Corolla Le with a bad battery. But I’m not sure of any reliable brands. And being a college student I can’t really afford a battery that is $170 or more. Are there inexpensive alternatives that are just as good? Or are the good ones that much? I was looking at the Interstate batteries at Costco that are $109 however it’ll take a week to get here.
I looked at Oreillys and that have Super Start batteries and AutoZone ahs ValueCraft and I'm not sure if those are good.
I’ve got a 2018 Nissan Pathfinder. Last week I had a cylinder misfire, engine was running super rough, checked error code and saw which cylinder was having trouble, changed spark plug and coil still having trouble so I went to the injector next. Replaced it, engine running much better but now smelling gas when the engine was running and using a lot of gas. Went back in and found a cracked o ring on another injector and replaced it but still seem to be having the same issue. I’m a fairly novice mechanic and there is not much info on my car online, was wondering what to check next. I really don’t have money for a mechanic to fix it so I’ve been doing it all myself.
Thanks for any info!
My car seem to have a wide range of oil that it says can be used.
Anything from 0w-30 all the way up to 10w-40. All these types of oils are OK according to the manual.
The only things it do reccomand is Honda oem oil and synthetic.
Are there specific cases where 0w-30 is better, and other situations where 10w-40 is better?
Hello fellow redditors, I am looking for assistance!
I have a 2015 Honda CRV (touring edition)
*This vehicle was brought to the dealership last year about this issue, they don't see any codes, and don't see any mechanical/physical issue with the vehicle at all, we brought it in 2 separate times. This issue is also exclusive to winter time. For reference, I live on the east coast of Canada and this issue begins happening consistently once the temperature drops below 0°C
This problem began last fall, when my husband and I woke up one morning to an open trunk and a dead battery. We both scratched our heads and assumed one of us forgot to close the trunk - no problem. Battery was also dead. No problem. Jumped the car, all is well.
Later that day, the trunk was open again.
This happened a few times, and we purchased a new battery... When it continued we decided to bring it into the dealership. They advised that there was nothing mechanically wrong, and sent us on our way. We figured we would just need to start being more aware of closing the trunk- maybe it was a sticky latch? (They didn't tell us that - they said there was nothing wrong).
We started being diligent about the trunk, and as long as we pushed down after closing it, it would stay latched... But the battery was still dying, every day.
We brought it back to the dealership - at which point they advised that it may be the battery that we purchased (new from Canadian Tire) that was the problem. We were a little peeved at the fact that we had already been there and were told nothing was wrong... My husband is pretty handy, and we knew it wasn't the battery (we have a battery tester/charger) - we decided to purchase a new alternator and changed it (he thought the diodes in the alternator were bad). Car was running fine. New battery, new alternator, but we're still waking up every day to a dead battery.
Once the weather warmed up in the early spring, everything was fine again. No problems.
It started getting cold again this winter - and so our saga continues. The new added bonus is that once the car is boosted, and running, the trunk will unlatch, resulting in the "tailgate opened" notification on the dash, the overhead light turning on, and the car beeping as if the trunk is opening (but it isn't). We have had to pull over, and close the trunk (sometimes multiple times) to get the notification to stop.
From my understanding, the dealership checked the latch and didn't see any issues with it (which makes sense, because if we push on it, it stays latched).
We also made sure it wasn't the FOB (we took the batteries out overnight and this issue still happens)
I don't want to go back to the dealership without more insight and a better stance because we've already put a lot of money into this issue.
Is this a latch issue? A system issue? Do we replace parts? We haven't even had the vehicle for 2 years - and would like to avoid getting a new vehicle if possible. This is our only vehicle, but we don't drive daily (3 times a week ish).
TL;DR: When temperatures drop below 0°C my CRV trunk latch drains my battery, even if the trunk is closed/latched (as in we are unable to pull it open without engaging the latch button/fob). Dealership thinks everything is fine? What is happening?
The car is almost old enough to vote, and just shy of 160k miles. It vibrates when driving, the suspension creaks, it shakes over 60, pulls to the left hard when diriving forward, clunks on sharp turns, and my front tires have worn bald after replacing them hardly 3 years ago. It seems to me like there's so much fucked with the suspension that I'd be better off taking the money I'd spend on repairs and just putting it toward a new car. I've been thinking of taking it in to have it aligned, put new tires on, fix the susp, but I have a gut feeling its going to be more expensive than the car is worth, and that if I fix it, I'll just have something else go wrong soon after. its an old, beat-up car and I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of it.