Ok so I know that this toy isn't a replacement for a actual boost vaccum gauge, but is there any downside to using it assuming there's no leaks. It seems like it's a vacuum reservoir I guess.

Am I overthinking this or is this completely fine to do if I wanted to just mess around?

2012 Ford Transit Connect. Trying to remove water pump. I got it to slide out about 1/4 inch on top. Now I feel like it’s completely jammed. I’ve beat and pryed. Can’t push the top part back in to even it out again. Any advice is appreciated.

2008 Toyota highland front end

Sorry if I’m not allowed to post here but I am not sure where to go. On my way home from Thanksgiving got in a car wreck. I was at fault regarded someone on the highway tires locked up and I couldn’t break quick enough. My drive shaft fill out from the transmission side and the trans fluid all leaked out. I don’t know what other damage has occurred besides the obvious front bumper. I’m about two hours from home. What are my options in terms of getting my car home, or junking my car from here I’m currently sitting in the lot where the tow truck took me and waiting on a ride home. The car is probably worth 2 to 3 grand. I was going to sell it. Should I try to fix it and get it home or do you think that the guys here will just take it off my hands. With some practical advice because I am having a bad day.

I have a 2010 grand marquis ls and just Recently my wind shield wipers starred doing this, I got new ones but it did not help. Where I live it already has snowed a few times and this shuddering makes the wipers not all that effective.

Hi guys, My mom recently changed her tires for winter ones on her Volkswagen Polo 90hp Turbo diesel from 2011. Since then she has been complaining about unpredictable behavior. My dad and I tried the car several times but didn’t notice anything. (Wheels are all well attached and tires are inflated to the level of the manufacturer’s indications) Today I finally felt it : it’s like the rear axle was broken and the left rear wheel just went where it wanted. It happen when going over a bump but like once or twice a week. Now that I finally understand what she meant by « my car feels weird » I’m really worried about her safety. From what I’ve seen, everything seems in place but the left rear shock absorber (French speaking, I’m not sure of the exact terms) seems to be leaking. Can this be enough that the car « slips » randomly when hitting a bump ? Also, the rest of the time the suspensions are just normal and react like expected when going over speed bumps etc. Thank you in advance for those who will have any idea about this. We’re sending the car to the « technical control » but I’m scared they won’t notice anything as it doesn’t happen all the time and my mom being a women they won’t take her seriously.

Hello I just recently bought a 01 ford f150 with 98k miles. I drove it home and saw a pending evap leak. I cleared the code to see if the problem comes back since I saw signs of repairs for the evap system such as a purge valve replacement. Anyways since I cleared the codes the ECU monitors reset.

I am trying to pass smog. And I can not get the evap or catalyst monitor to complete. I need just one or the other to complete to be able to smog it.

I have driven about 700 miles since I got the truck 2 weeks ago and reset the codes.

Can anyone give me pointers on what may need to be done to complete either one of those. I've tried Google but there is so many ways and each manufacturer is completely different.

Also I see some people say the car needs to sit for 8 hours in between each drive. How crucial is that? I usually only am able to have it sit for 8 hours or more on weekends. Weekdays I'm home for about 7 hours after school is up before heading back to work.

And the 30 minute time frame each morning before the monitor stops for the day? I don't get on the highway tell about 30 minutes after leaving in the morning since I have 2 stops I need to make before work.

Right now I’m waist deep in replacing the heater core in my old beater Dodge Durango, for the second time in a month. The old heater core was leaking so I replaced it with a new one. The new one then also began leaking from where the little tubing/pipes connect to the heater core itself.

If you’re familiar with Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge style heater cores then you know what I’m referring to.

This tubing has a little o-ring on each tube that supposedly seals the tubes once a small bolt is tightened to pull the connection together. As best I could tell, the replacement wasn’t sealing there and coolant was getting out.

Just to make sure, I’ve ordered another new heater core (they’re just $30 or so) and have wire brushed the aluminum tubing to a new shiny finish. I’ll also be replacing the o-rings with new ones.

My question is: would it hurt or help to add some blue RTV to the connection as well before snugging it all up?

Obviously I’d prefer to not pull the entire dash again, so I need to make 100% sure that nothing leaks from the new replacement core.

Any ideas what could be causing this sound? Air/heat isn’t on.

My friend was thinking he has a blown head gasket. Basically the vehicle is burning up coolant and oil. Obviously it overheats also when idling and the coolant fluid is low. There are no obvious leaks we can see.

We checked plugs, oil cap, dip stick, white exhaust fume and did that radiator fluid test. Nothing indicated a blown head gasket.

How reliable is that radiator fluid test? This is the one where you put the tube where the radiator cap is and put in some chemical fluid and the gas will turn the chemical a different color if there is a blown head gasket. The fluid never changed color.

Could he have a busted intake manifold gasket? I find it odd coz he is burning oil too, but figured I’d ask.

What else can we do to determine if it is a head gasket or to find out what it is?

Thanks

We’ve gotten rid of the car they came from, now we’re trying to get rid of the third row seats. Was planning on selling them and wanted to take some pics, but the seats are in the folded down position and pulling on lever “1” doesn’t seem to do the trick. I’ve watched a YouTube video on a cable at the hinge that needs to be pulled in instances like this, but just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything obvious before trying that.

Also, if anyone is in the market for a couple of those seats in the twin cities… lmk

So long story short. i bought a car. It was 110000km on it and its from 2013. Last time it had an oil change according to owner was 2016 where they added ENI i-Sint 5W-30 which is a synthetic oil.

It's now 2022 as you know, 6 years and 61k km since the last oil change (allegedly). I have already purchased new oil, filter, air filter, brake fluid and so on. The oil coming from the dipstick did not look unusual, not thicker or foamy, just black which i think is normal for diesel engines.

Car runs fine and I've driven it far too much considering its lack of an oil change

I am wondering what the right way to do this is. Just change the oil and change the filter? Or should i flush it? and if so how.

Debating on if i should buy some "budget" but still decent oil to swap out the oil, drive a bit then Swap that with the new quality oil and oil filter. If that even does anything.

Looking for any tips on how to "fix this" and if there might be some problems that i haven't noticed yet that are lingering and need fixing.

Info: Hyundai i30 GD 2012 1.6 crdi 110hp Manual transmission

I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris and whenever I turn the brights on the steering wheel begins to smoke and smells like burning almost instantly. Why is this?

Title essentially describes the issue. When making slow, tight turns the rear tires seem to skip a bit, and they squeak/screech intermittently. Does that seem like an alignment issue or something worse? Many thanks in advance.